A Goldendoodle is a cross between a Poodle and a Golden Retriever. The Goldendoodle is a wonderful family pet. They are fun loving, happy, love people, adore children and other pets. They love to take part in family activities, such as camping, hiking/walking, swimming etc.
Doodles can be found in just about any size and color you could want!
- Standard: Height=21-24 inches; Approx Weight Range=50-75 pounds
- Medium: Height=17-20 inches; Approx Weight Range=30-45 pounds
- Mini: Height=14-16 inches; Approx Weight Range=25-45 pounds
- F1: A GoldenRetriever bred to a Standard Poodle [first generation [50/50] in percentages [shedding varies ]
- F1B: A Poodle bred to a first generation F1 Doodle ;75% poodle, 25 % Golden Retriever[ recommended for people with allergies more than the F1]
- F2: An F1 Doodle bred to an F1 Doodle [second generation ] still [50/50]
MULTIGENERATIONAL CATEGORIES – also known as Multigens
Multi-Gen- A puppy is classified as multi-generational when both parents are Goldendoodles. One parent must be an F1B or higher. A Poodle bred to an F1B Doodle is also considered a Multigen.
- F2B: An F1 Doodle bred to an F1b Doodle producing 62.5 % Poodle , 37.5% Golden Retriever . These Multigens are recommended for people with moderate to severe allergies.
- F3: An F1b bred to an F2. these offspring will have a higher success rate for non-shedding that an F1 or F2 .
- F3: Some also consider the F1b bred to another F1b an F3.[ Multigenerational] ]
- F1BB: F1b Doodle bred to a Poodle is called F1bb. These dogs are great for folks with severe allergies but still want the doodle look. 87.5% Poodle & 12.5% Golden Retriever.
If a poodle is bred back to a wavy-coated Multigenerational Doodle, most pups will have almost the exact same coat and gene mix as the F1b generation.
We suggest crating the puppy or layering old towels three or four deep on the car seat or on your lap. It is not necessary for you to buy a small crate simply for transporting the puppy, however, as it’ll outgrow it quickly.
The car is a new environment and your puppy will most likely just sleep. If the puppy wakes up and wants to move around, it probably needs to potty. Use the collar/leash combo for stops during your drive. Some puppies will get car sick, so take a trash bag, paper towels, and wet wipes as a precaution. You can additionally layer the bottom of the crate with shredded paper (which I’ll happily provide upon request) to keep the puppy clean if it does get sick.
On the first day you have your puppy in its new home, take it outside to its designated potty area every half hour. On the second day, take it out every hour. If there are no accidents, you can adjust to every hour and half on the third day, and to two hours by the fourth day. Two hours would be the maximum amount of time not to go out during the day if the young puppy is running about and playing. If the puppy is alone in a crate it will mostly sleep, since it doesn’t have water or food he can hold his bladder longer. To help reduce nighttime potty breaks, take food away after 6:00 PM and water after 7:00 PM. In the morning, take the puppy outside immediately, since it’s been holding its bladder all night.
We recommend that you tie a large bell or two to your doorknob with ribbon, low enough for the puppy to reach with its nose, and teach it to ring the bell each time before you let it outside. This works great in a large home or very active homes where you are not always aware of the poor puppy patiently waiting by the door.
Potty training normally takes around a week. Do not blame or punish your puppy if it does soil in the house, for it is just a baby and will not know why you are upset. Plus, an accident also means that you missed the signs that your puppy needed to go outside.
The puppy will most likely cry the first night because it has learned that whining earns attention. Regardless of the whining, you should still be crate training. It is important not to give into the whining so that your puppy learns that it’ll have to stay in the crate; in other words, do not get your puppy out of the crate while it’s whining! If the puppy starts to whimper after a few hours of sleep, however, it’s is most likely telling you that it needs to potty. Take it outside and straight back to the crate so that it does not think it’s time to play. Don’t worry – in most cases, the whining only lasts for one or two nights.
To make the puppy more comfortable, you can fill an empty two-liter soft drink bottle with warm to hot water, wrap it in a towel, and place it in the crate so the puppy feels like it’s sleeping next to a litter mate. Other than the water bottle, however, I do not recommend putting anything in the crate, lest the puppy plays rather than sleeps.
We ask that you bring your puppy to the vet within 48 hours of his/her homecoming (not including weekends or holidays). We need to know that your puppy handled the flight well and is adjusting to his/her new home as expected. If your vet clinic has any questions at all, feel free to have them give us a call. We ask that you have your vet give you a simple letter that states that your puppy has been checked and everything looks good. We don’t need the letter unless you ever have a problem in the future, so just file it with your records.
Remember, your first goal is to enjoy and love your new puppy. Feeding, potty training, and sleep are all very important to a puppy’s development, but puppies need love to flourish. In a home where they are welcomed and loved, they will very quickly reciprocate this affection to their family. Please don’t hesitate to let us know if there is anything we can do for you in the future.
